How to put together a RATLER bell body style spinner...
I have been modifying store bought bell body style spinners for quite a number of years with good results on the water. My modifications were in an attempt to turn a spinner intended to be a casting spinner into something that I could use in a trolling application with the addition of a skirt (squid body/hoochie) of my liking. After years (over 20) of being asked about the availability of the parts to put together the bell body style spinners, I finally have a positive YES! answer in the way of the new RATLER spinner blades and lure bodies. I will go into detail dissecting these blades and bodies in the near future but for now, I want to just run down how to put these spinners together.
For the sake of this discussion, I want to lay out how to put these spinners together with the aid of the step by step photos above. The number one premise of this spinner is that the bell body should be able to turn freely on the shaft, around the STATIONARY gear that is at the base of the wire shaft, closest to the hook. So, here is the step by step on how to get that premise accomplished.
SEE PHOTO COLLAGE ABOVE
1. Start with an open wire shaft and slide your hook on. If you are using an open eye single siwash style hook, you can just crimp one on after finishing the spinner. If you prefer to use a split ring to attach your hooks, this is the time to slide it on the wire the same way picture one shows the hook being placed on the shaft.
2. Slide the RATLER "gear" body on the shaft and slide it down as far as it will go. Be sure to use the correct size gear for the size bell body you are using--when ordering, they are numbered appropriately. Note that the size 4 and 5 gears are interchangeable as the diameter of the #4 and 5 bell bodies are the same.
3. Take the tag end of the open eye wire shaft and bend it down perpendicular to the gear body. This will secure the gear so it is no able to rotate on the shaft. Then, as in the photo 3, just bend that tag with your pliers or cut the tag with a pair of wire cutters. Either way, just make sure the wire does not protrude past the edge of the gear and interfere with the bell body rotation. Again, remember, the premise is that you want the bell body to be able to rotate on the shaft around the gear.
4/5. At this point, you need to have something on the shaft that will allow the bell body placement to be correct. Correct placement would be about the mid point of the gear. SEE PICTURE 5. In my experience with modifying store bought bell body style spinners, I have found that using beads on the shaft is an easy and effective way to get the proper bell body placement. Of course, the different bodies will need varying numbers of beads depending on what size you use. In photo 4 you can see that 2 each 6mm and 2 each 4mm beads are the correct length on the shaft to accommodate the #6 bell body used in the example.
6/7. Next, slide on a "saucer" body. If you are looking to build this spinner the same way you see in store bought spinners, the saucer body is part of that construction. You can then put the blade and clevis on the shaft, on top of the saucer. However, in my experience with modification of this design, I prefer to add a bearing bead (1/8 or 5/32") above the saucer body. This assures a reliable bearing surface that aids blade spin--particularly if you are doing any upstream casting. Pictures 6 and 7 illustrate this saucer body and bearing bead combo.
8/9. At this point, just attach the blade to the shaft with a clevis (#3) and then finish you loop with what ever wire forming process you prefer.
Note: Below is a picture of two bell body spinners that utilize plastic beads above the bell body for added color and bearing surface. this is how I personally prefer to run these spinners based on my trial and error of modifying store bought bell body style spinners.
Also, you can see that it is very easy to add a skirt (squid body/hoochie) to the spinner.
I hope this information helps you with the basics of putting this style of spinner together. And please remember, there really is no 100% "gotta do it this way" when it comes to building spinners. But, the illustration above is a great starting point as you begin to put together some RATLER bell body style spinners.
For the sake of this discussion, I want to lay out how to put these spinners together with the aid of the step by step photos above. The number one premise of this spinner is that the bell body should be able to turn freely on the shaft, around the STATIONARY gear that is at the base of the wire shaft, closest to the hook. So, here is the step by step on how to get that premise accomplished.
SEE PHOTO COLLAGE ABOVE
1. Start with an open wire shaft and slide your hook on. If you are using an open eye single siwash style hook, you can just crimp one on after finishing the spinner. If you prefer to use a split ring to attach your hooks, this is the time to slide it on the wire the same way picture one shows the hook being placed on the shaft.
2. Slide the RATLER "gear" body on the shaft and slide it down as far as it will go. Be sure to use the correct size gear for the size bell body you are using--when ordering, they are numbered appropriately. Note that the size 4 and 5 gears are interchangeable as the diameter of the #4 and 5 bell bodies are the same.
3. Take the tag end of the open eye wire shaft and bend it down perpendicular to the gear body. This will secure the gear so it is no able to rotate on the shaft. Then, as in the photo 3, just bend that tag with your pliers or cut the tag with a pair of wire cutters. Either way, just make sure the wire does not protrude past the edge of the gear and interfere with the bell body rotation. Again, remember, the premise is that you want the bell body to be able to rotate on the shaft around the gear.
4/5. At this point, you need to have something on the shaft that will allow the bell body placement to be correct. Correct placement would be about the mid point of the gear. SEE PICTURE 5. In my experience with modifying store bought bell body style spinners, I have found that using beads on the shaft is an easy and effective way to get the proper bell body placement. Of course, the different bodies will need varying numbers of beads depending on what size you use. In photo 4 you can see that 2 each 6mm and 2 each 4mm beads are the correct length on the shaft to accommodate the #6 bell body used in the example.
6/7. Next, slide on a "saucer" body. If you are looking to build this spinner the same way you see in store bought spinners, the saucer body is part of that construction. You can then put the blade and clevis on the shaft, on top of the saucer. However, in my experience with modification of this design, I prefer to add a bearing bead (1/8 or 5/32") above the saucer body. This assures a reliable bearing surface that aids blade spin--particularly if you are doing any upstream casting. Pictures 6 and 7 illustrate this saucer body and bearing bead combo.
8/9. At this point, just attach the blade to the shaft with a clevis (#3) and then finish you loop with what ever wire forming process you prefer.
Note: Below is a picture of two bell body spinners that utilize plastic beads above the bell body for added color and bearing surface. this is how I personally prefer to run these spinners based on my trial and error of modifying store bought bell body style spinners.
Also, you can see that it is very easy to add a skirt (squid body/hoochie) to the spinner.
I hope this information helps you with the basics of putting this style of spinner together. And please remember, there really is no 100% "gotta do it this way" when it comes to building spinners. But, the illustration above is a great starting point as you begin to put together some RATLER bell body style spinners.
Making spinners directly on your leader is simple and effective as well as being a great way to combine bait and a spinner blade. In the image at the left you can see the basic set up. Just tie hook(s) to the end of you leader. One treble or single works great and using two singles (as in a mooching rig) work well if you plan to add bait. Above the hook slide some beads--the amount of beads depends on blade size. I like to keep the blade away from the hook--top of the eye of the hook is a good guideline. A bearing bead (4 or 5mm) is pretty key in getting a good consistent blade spin.
To attach the blade, my preference is for a plastic/vinyl clevis. The GotZem (pictured) is my choice and there are plastic quick change varieties available. The down fall of the quick change is the occasional lost blade and the down fall of metal varieties is leader wear. The obvious advantage of using a quick change is ease of switching blades but, I have grown accustomed to preparing leaders and if I want to switch blades I simply cut, add new blade, re-tie and go.
Leader size is dependent of the size of the fish you are fishing for but a general rule is to lean on the heavy side rather than the lighter side. For salmon (coho or chinook) I use 30 or 40 pound when making spinners directly on the leader. The main reason for this is to give the blade a fairly rigid "shaft" to spin on. Blades will still work on lighter leaders but if you use larger blades--#6 or bigger--the thicker leader will help the spin.
Overall running your spinners on your leader is an effective method. I do use this method but still fish spinners on wire shafts in the majority of my spinner fishing. I like this method real well when I want to combine bait with my blade. The last couple summers I have had great results adding a strip of herring behind my blades for coho. From the Northwest, I get reports of success using coon shrimp behind a blade for both coho and chinook. So, if you haven't, it might be worth a try and keep in mind that what I have layed out here are guidelines and fine tuning the various aspects of the rig may be in order to match you particular fishery.
To attach the blade, my preference is for a plastic/vinyl clevis. The GotZem (pictured) is my choice and there are plastic quick change varieties available. The down fall of the quick change is the occasional lost blade and the down fall of metal varieties is leader wear. The obvious advantage of using a quick change is ease of switching blades but, I have grown accustomed to preparing leaders and if I want to switch blades I simply cut, add new blade, re-tie and go.
Leader size is dependent of the size of the fish you are fishing for but a general rule is to lean on the heavy side rather than the lighter side. For salmon (coho or chinook) I use 30 or 40 pound when making spinners directly on the leader. The main reason for this is to give the blade a fairly rigid "shaft" to spin on. Blades will still work on lighter leaders but if you use larger blades--#6 or bigger--the thicker leader will help the spin.
Overall running your spinners on your leader is an effective method. I do use this method but still fish spinners on wire shafts in the majority of my spinner fishing. I like this method real well when I want to combine bait with my blade. The last couple summers I have had great results adding a strip of herring behind my blades for coho. From the Northwest, I get reports of success using coon shrimp behind a blade for both coho and chinook. So, if you haven't, it might be worth a try and keep in mind that what I have layed out here are guidelines and fine tuning the various aspects of the rig may be in order to match you particular fishery.
UV Tape on Flashers...
8" black blade w/UV Tape
6" pink blade w/UV Tape
I have been seeing some good results in my early season king fishing (2013 season) with herring trolled behind flashers. Very high amounts of spring run off in the local streams has created some off color water during portions of both the incoming and outgoing tides. The two flashers pictured to the right are the two standouts for the season so far. The black blade (Shortbus Flashers Blank) with the Chartreuse UV Tape Shapes and dots performed in low and bright light conditions but was definitely the go to and most hit flasher in low light conditions. The pink bladed flasher with the same UV tape was very good in murky water for me. I fish both the 8" (black blade) and 5.5 to 6" blades with just about equal success. I will post how I rig these soon...I use the two sizes rigged differently so I will get the detail on this posted soon.
"Hang Back" and "Flex" Type Spinner Construction
The "hang back" and "flex" style spinner concept has actually been around for a long time but in the last couple years has gained a resurgence, largely on the Columbia river salmon fishery. The concept is simple, get the hook back far enough to help eliminate short strikes, of which coho salmon are famous. There are many methods out there but the two bottom images to the left show two set ups that are proven effective.
The top image utilizes an Owner 5284W/3/0 single stinger hook on a wire. I like these because the hook is very effective and the wire lends itself to the addition of hook tubing to add color.
The bottom image uses a #10 six bead chain wired directly to the shaft with a 1/0 siwash hook crimped on the end of the chain. The biggest selling point on this set up is the fact that the hook, once in the fish, will swivel off the chain which conceptually would lead to less hooks pulling out of the fish.
The spinners pictured to the left are made with #3 colorado blades and are a couple designs that have performed well for me on coho salmon. When it comes to chinook, I like building skirted spinners in size 5, 6 and 7 FB style blades. The 3.5" skirts (pictured) are the size I use the most but when going to the bigger blades, I prefer a 4" hootchie (squid) skirt and use the 4.5" double skirt on my largest #7 patterns. The extension of the hook remains the same, utilizing the Owner 5284W in 3/0 and 5/0 and the 6 bead #10 bead chain.
The top image utilizes an Owner 5284W/3/0 single stinger hook on a wire. I like these because the hook is very effective and the wire lends itself to the addition of hook tubing to add color.
The bottom image uses a #10 six bead chain wired directly to the shaft with a 1/0 siwash hook crimped on the end of the chain. The biggest selling point on this set up is the fact that the hook, once in the fish, will swivel off the chain which conceptually would lead to less hooks pulling out of the fish.
The spinners pictured to the left are made with #3 colorado blades and are a couple designs that have performed well for me on coho salmon. When it comes to chinook, I like building skirted spinners in size 5, 6 and 7 FB style blades. The 3.5" skirts (pictured) are the size I use the most but when going to the bigger blades, I prefer a 4" hootchie (squid) skirt and use the 4.5" double skirt on my largest #7 patterns. The extension of the hook remains the same, utilizing the Owner 5284W in 3/0 and 5/0 and the 6 bead #10 bead chain.
Flash in front of herring...
Green label herring with a #3FB Blade added for extra flash and action.
Adding blades in front of your herring or anchovy is an easy way to enhance the flash and action coming off a bait. I have to be honest, my preference, if I think about it, is for a good bait turning out there all by itself. But, I cannot argue with the results I have had over the last 4-5 seasons as I have found myself fishing more baits with blades added to them. Both Chinook and Coho have been responsive to the added blade baits and on some days, particularly on Coho, the bladed baits are definitely preferred by the fish.
Rigging is pretty simple and there are more ways to rig than what I will describe but I will relate what has been effective for me. In the image at the above left, you can see how the blade bait is rigged. I slide 5-6 beads (I like 6mm size) down the leader of a double hook herring rig. Then I slide a plastic quick change clevis (larger of 2 sizes generally available) on top of the beads. Then, you can clip a blade of your choice on the quick change clevis and you are ready to go. The blades I like the best as far as size goes are the B10 #3 and 4 and the FB #3 and 5 sizes along with colorado #3 and 4 sizes. As far as color goes, my feeling is that I want something that flashes so I use all gold, silver or copper along with gold, silver or copper blades tipped with color. Overall, my preference is for gold but as I play around with this method further, I am finding copper and bronze to be very effective as well.
In order to get and maintain a good spin on your herring it is important, at least in my experience, to be sure to have some distance from the front of the bait to the blade. Blade size will be the biggest factor in how many beads you use. In the image above, the blade is a size 3 FB series blade and I have used 5 each, 5mm beads and that has been very good for me on both green and blue label baits. If I go with bigger blades, particularly the #5 FB, I like to slide one 8mm and then 5 each, 5mm beads to get the separation I need to get a good spin. Keep in mind that all of these specifics can change depending on your troll speed and whether you are using a flasher in front of this set up.
If you have never tried this method you owe it to yourself to give it a try, you may find, like I have that it can be the savior on a tough day of trolling.
Rigging is pretty simple and there are more ways to rig than what I will describe but I will relate what has been effective for me. In the image at the above left, you can see how the blade bait is rigged. I slide 5-6 beads (I like 6mm size) down the leader of a double hook herring rig. Then I slide a plastic quick change clevis (larger of 2 sizes generally available) on top of the beads. Then, you can clip a blade of your choice on the quick change clevis and you are ready to go. The blades I like the best as far as size goes are the B10 #3 and 4 and the FB #3 and 5 sizes along with colorado #3 and 4 sizes. As far as color goes, my feeling is that I want something that flashes so I use all gold, silver or copper along with gold, silver or copper blades tipped with color. Overall, my preference is for gold but as I play around with this method further, I am finding copper and bronze to be very effective as well.
In order to get and maintain a good spin on your herring it is important, at least in my experience, to be sure to have some distance from the front of the bait to the blade. Blade size will be the biggest factor in how many beads you use. In the image above, the blade is a size 3 FB series blade and I have used 5 each, 5mm beads and that has been very good for me on both green and blue label baits. If I go with bigger blades, particularly the #5 FB, I like to slide one 8mm and then 5 each, 5mm beads to get the separation I need to get a good spin. Keep in mind that all of these specifics can change depending on your troll speed and whether you are using a flasher in front of this set up.
If you have never tried this method you owe it to yourself to give it a try, you may find, like I have that it can be the savior on a tough day of trolling.
Adding Weight to your River Spinner The photos to the left illustrate one method of adding both weight and color to your spinner. Using 3/16" hollow core with hook tubing over the top accomplishes this in a couple pretty easy steps. Simply cut the size of lead you want being careful to keep it as straight as possible. I find using wire stripping pliers works well to cut the lead wire and leave the hole in tact. I do my best to straighten the wire before cutting it to the size I want. Then, cut some hook tubing (1/8") slightly shorter in length than the lead. In order to slide the tubing over the lead you will need something to aid the process. Many things will work-- my preferred product is foaming antibacterial hand soap (cheap at WalMart) --the kind with the pump. Simply apply the foam soap to one end of the lead and work the tubing onto that end and as you push the tubing onto the lead, the soap will help move the tubing into place. Then it is just of matter of sliding the completed body piece on the shaft. Adding a bead or two for color and for bearings is pretty essential as well.
The picture to the right, above, shows a completed spinner utilizing the lead/tubing body. The hook tubing is a bonus as the plain old lead will suffice but added color is always something that can only help you. Weighting this type of spinner can help eliminate the need for further lead (or divers) up the line so you can just flat line and use it as you see fit. It also enables you to have the option of casting and retrieving your spinner as well. And, even though there are literally hundreds of pre-made lure bodies out there, this method of adding weight is simple and substantially cheaper than that option.
The picture to the right, above, shows a completed spinner utilizing the lead/tubing body. The hook tubing is a bonus as the plain old lead will suffice but added color is always something that can only help you. Weighting this type of spinner can help eliminate the need for further lead (or divers) up the line so you can just flat line and use it as you see fit. It also enables you to have the option of casting and retrieving your spinner as well. And, even though there are literally hundreds of pre-made lure bodies out there, this method of adding weight is simple and substantially cheaper than that option.